Benchmark Wines by

Lafon, Comte

The Winery

Domaine des Comtes Lafon

When Jules Lafon married Marie Boch in 1894 they purchased several significant premier cru plots in Meursault and Volnay in the Cote de Beaune region of France. After numerous decades of sharecropping dilemmas, the domaine was able to reach its full potential by the late 1980s and now is making some of the most revered and highly priced Chardonnay in Burgundy while also adopting organic and biodynamic practices. The winemaking techniques of the current winemaker, owner, and director of the winery, Dominique Lafon, excel in demonstrating the typicity in each of the crus resulting in round, seductive wines that will always finish strong.

www.comtes-lafon.fr

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Tasting Notes

WA95
Having tasted this three or four times in the past, I probably have under-rated this wine because it is such a long-term proposition. The 2005 Volnay Santenot has a dense, almost impenetrable bouquet that demands considerable aeration to unveil its multi-layered aromatic profile of creme de cassis, raspberry, blackberry and a veneer of new oak that needs several more years to be fully absorbed (indeed, it feels like more than the one-third new oak that Dominique uses). The palate is full-bodied with a sweet, succulent entry. It is beautifully balanced, vivacious and sensual with a dab of alcohol on the finish. It is far too young to broach at the moment, but it will develop with style over the next three decades.
BH94
A perfectly ripe, expressive and wonderfully fresh nose of deeply pitched cherry, spice and violet aromas that are more elegant still as they announce rich, full, sweet and velvety mouth coating flavors that offer outstanding detail and superb depth of material on the strikingly long finish. There is a gorgeously appealing sense of harmony here with really lovely transparency. A great Santenots but note that this will require extended cellar time.

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