Tasting Notes

WA93

The Claude Dugat 2006 Chapelle-Chambertin raises the smoky pungency, sappy intensity, and darkness of flavor exhibited by several of its stable mates to another level. Tannic intensity is however correspondingly elevated. Dark cherry, rhubarb, white pepper, walnut oil, and singed meat are among the elements in this formidable, gripping, and ultimately austere and severe performance. This is strictly for those with patience and faith, as I cannot imagine it needing less than 5-6 years in bottle, much like a top 2005. Ironically, in fact, the 2005 rendition of this particular Dugat cru was charming and generous vis-a-vis its Griotte counterpart, but this year the roles are reversed. "Griotte is more Pinot and feminine; Chapelle more terroir and masculine," ventures Dugat.

V93

Bright ruby-red. Black fruits and licorice on the nose. Lusher and silkier today than the Charmes; shows a more open-knit texture but this still has a lovely reserve to it. Gains in breadth on the back half, spreading out impressively to coat the palate. Wonderfully sappy wine but not at all overly sweet. Finishes with building, slightly tough tannins that call for at least six or seven years of patience. These 2006s are unusually firm and serious for Dugat wines.

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