Tasting Notes

WSM95

ld Firs is one of the two original vineyard blocks that Ross Cobb’s parents—David and Diane—planted in 1989. The soil here is rich, deep clay loam, which allows the vines to be dry farmed. Still, it’s a cool site, and yields are quite low. This 2012 is closed at first, but with air it becomes translucent, then transparent: refreshing scents of juniper and rosemary, red fruit mingled with earth, the appetizing zestiness of blood oranges. The overall impression is one of cool instensity, the wine’s flavors tied as if by invisible strings to precise, stony tannins. The structure is analogous to the coiled reserve of a young grand cru Burgundy, yet supremely coastal—a brilliant wine that couldn’t come from anywhere else.

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