Tasting Notes

WS97

Supple, rich and complex, this is a towering, majestic wine layered with floral, mineral and exotic spice character around a core of meaty black cherry, licorice and maple flavors. It all comes together seamlessly on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2020.

WA92

Representing the fourth installment of a wine designed to showcase what he treats as his Cinderella vineyard (though it's not actually his), with whose Syrah vines as he puts it "we hit it out of the ballpark already with the first vintage," Smith's 2009 Syrah Stoneridge Vineyard Royal City combines amazing density of sappy cassis, cherry concentrate, bitter huckleberry, licorice and road tar with vibratory impingement of brown spices, citrus rind, brined anchovy, and some je ne sais quoi that, as with numerous other Washington behemoths, it manages to pull from an environmental stock of energy. All of that said, you'll have to really like the particular flavors on exhibit here to want to imbibe them at this level of near-overwhelming concentration; overnight the only change I noted was the emergence of a faintly caramelized and rancid note from oak; and whether the strong tannins that lurk beneath this wine's sweet, viscous, tarry surface will remain well-blanketed as it evolves in bottle only time can tell. (I'll hope to taste one of the four previous vintages of Royal City next year, but even so, wine built to this scale must count as very young still at only age six or less.) Naturally it hasn't escaped me that most of my fellow critics have praised these Royal City wines as if they represented the proverbial Shining City on the Hill of Syrah, and some friends I especially respect have written eloquently of their virtues. I guess I have to part ways with them in the degree of excitement I find myself able to muster for an, as yet at least, rather amorphous syrup of Syrah, even one so startlingly shot through with virtual lightning bolts of energy. But, as already suggested, I'll hope to find out what precipitates from this big, dark vinous storm cloud over the years.

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