Tasting Notes

WA90

The 2005 Volnay Champans (from vines averaging 50 years of age in a cru of which the domaine owns a good 8%) offers sour cherry, red currant, rose hip, and cinnamon aromas, clear, juicy fruit with underlying wet stone on the palate, and alluring fresh ripe fruit and sweet spice in its finish. Slightly less sleek, refined or cutting than the Brouillards, and exhibiting as yet little of the fungal, forest floor or game elements one might expect to encounter in this site, this nevertheless displays admirable purity and at least decade-long aging potential. The sleek, well-concentrated, and fascinatingly-flavored 2004, incidentally – “picked berry by berry” to avoid any taint of hail, says Charlot – is no less excellent.

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