Tasting Notes

WA93

1996 was a much hotter year than 1997, 1995, and 1994. While the 1996s are outstanding wines, in some cases the aromatics are more muted because of 1996`s high heat. As the tasting notes and ratings evidence, the Chardonnays are slightly more bunched in scores and quality than in vintages such as 1995 and 1994. I have always been a fan of the Chardonnay Cuvee Indigene, so named because it is made from 100% indigenous yeasts and is what the professionals call a "naturally fermented" wine. It always possesses exuberant, intense ripe fruit and richness, along with smoky, beer nut, pain grille-like aromas. The 1996 is a full-bodied, gorgeously proportioned, exotic Chardonnay that leans toward Burgundy in its aromatics, but clearly comes down on the California side with its ostentatious display of ripe fruit. As much as I love the Cuvee Indigene, I have found that recent vintages have gotten even better after a year or so in the bottle. I have never believed these wines should be cellared for more than four or five years, but I am beginning to wonder if that advice might be a bit conservative. Moreover, I suggest decanting this wine 30-45 minutes prior to serving as aeration always seems to enhance the wine`s perfume. In any event, this is a stunningly rich, intense Chardonnay that is among the finest being made in California. All of Peter Michael`s top wines, including the Chardonnays, are bottled without filtration. Readers should make it a point to visit this winery situated in Knights Valley, not far from the Napa/Sonoma county line. The quality is extraordinary, and the commitment and talent of the winery staff laudatory. Moreover, the winery seems committed to achieving even greater quality.

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